Now that this problem is sort of solved the next step is to try my hands at CNC'ing a PCB board. 3c/w junction to case number, if my big sink can handle it. If all goes well I might even be able to do something like 150w per device with the new. Though as stable as it seemed I think it will be fine once I go back to 10V and get my 200v fets in. I did add a bit of a variable to the mix though since I was all out of my original FET I had to use an IRL2910 (CBA Fet) and drop my op-amp voltage to 5V. For the first time today I was able to get to 60 volts and 1.3 amps with out a bunch of smoke blowing in my face. The the most critical change was 100pf capacitor that runs between output and the current sense line. They had me change the resistor from output of the op-amp to the gate to a 300 ohm and the sense resistor to a 10K.

So I took out the capacitors I had added. This is bad when it starts to go into an over current situation and would blow it self up. That was slowing down how quickly the op-amp could react to changes in current. It turns out that me adding capacitors was bad. So talking with the guys on all about circuits forum I got some answers to my problems. Thanks Alan I'll have to try to hunt that down. My hotwire regulator is good up to about 15 amps and 40 volts and they wanted higher voltage upgrades for it. Not quite ebike levels, but more than you'd probably expect. The hotwire guys run some pretty amazing power levels in their flashlights, and various lithium battery packs. There is a lot of CBA experience over there. Probably a hand reverse engineered version.

Alan B wrote:A CBA schematic is available somewhere on Candlepower Forums.

Diptrace vs eagle eevblog